Josh Hattan and I went into the Winds for a day and a half and climbed Railroad Tracks (III 5.8) on Haystack. It was my first technical climb in the Winds since moving here and it was a blast. It still amazes me that I can work for a half day, hike into the mountains that I love, sleep under the stars, climb a great 1000′ route the next morning, then hike out and be home before dark.
The granite slabs and cascading stream between Clear Lake and Deep Lake is one of my favorite spots in the range. We started our hike around 3pm and found a spot to camp around 6pm. We took a short hike up to the base of the climb, scoped out a harder route to the left for another visit, then had dinner and crawled into our bivy sacks. The night sky was bright with stars and amazing after a hazy day of smoke brought up from California fires.
Up at first light and after a good breakfast, coffee, and gear sorting, we hit the first pitch by 7:30. It was a long 5.4 and we ended up simulclimbing on Josh’s 180 foot rope. I took the next pitch at 5.8 and it was good, though grassy and not sustained in difficulty. We swung leads up a pair of 5.6s where I made a nice belay on a small ledge now 600′ up the wall. Josh took the next (and crux) lead, a great 5.8 pitch on clean rock with continuously good climbing. I took off up the next pitch at 5.4 and difficulties decreased from there. Soon we were up-roped and scrambling the final slabs and ledges to the top.
We hung out on top for a while, a rare treat in the Winds to be on a summit before noon and enjoying a warm day with only a slight breeze. We climbed down the Grassy Goat route, a nice ledge system that slants across the face of Haystack. This was not a boring descent, but a class 4 route with some fun and challenging down climbing.
We were back at our packs a short 6 hours after leaving camp and just 3 more hours from the trail head. We took our time, talked to a few people, and were back in Pinedale in time for dinner. We’ll definitely return to Haystack. Easy approach, beautiful setting, classic routes, and less crowds than the Cirque of Towers. Simply amazing!
